Hey weirdos! I’m excited to finally share our update on the crown moulding we installed in the kitchen this month.
Back in June, I lucked out and won a Home Depot gift card through Melissa’s awesome blog, The Sweet Escape (you can check out my winning Pinterest board here). So far, I’ve splurged on a new, outdoor, motion sensor light, new hardware for the screen door, fresh paint for the front door, and some crown moulding for the kitchen.
As a reminder, our lovely flat ceiling and pot-lights had the kitchen ceiling looking like this:
Not bad, but obviously that gap needed to be fixed. Along the top of the cabinets, you can see where our previous drop ceiling stopped — we’ve gained nearly 2″ of ceiling height!
Crown molding can be a bit mind bending if you’ve never done it before. Unlike baseboards, crown molding has two angles at play — the inside/outside angles at corners, and the angle of the moulding itself between the ceiling and the cabinets (or walls). This means that cutting basic 45 degree angles, like you would with baseboards, won’t work.
Two resources that were invaluable to us were: Dewalt’s video, “How to cut crown molding flat with a DEWALT Miter Saw” and Superior Building Supplies video, “Miter Crown Moulding – Cut The Perfect Inside Corner.”
Note: if you also check out SBS’s blog, the written instructions mislabel the table and fence (although they have it correct in the video above). You need to treat your mitre fence as if it were the cabinet/wall and the mitre table as if it were the ceiling — not the other way around. Use the video instructions to set your saw, mark your measurement along the back of the crown, and make your cuts. Superior Building Supplies has this handy printout that you literally tape to the saw to help you remember where your discard should be:
Jeff had the whole process sorted out quite quickly. Thank goodness he’s got both brains and brawn. Then, it was as simple as tacking the moulding into place with our finishing nailer.
The trickiest bit was the jog along the window, but a few extra shaves on the mitre saw had things fitting pretty tightly.
Since we have large antique moulding along the doorways on both sides of the room, we decided we didn’t want to run the crown all the way around the room — keeping it as a cabinet cap, rather than room moulding.
After things were fixed in place, I got busy caulking each edge and seam to make any gap look seamless. Don’t skip this step! A good paintable caulk makes all the difference in detail projects — I am a loyal user of DAP® ALEX Fast Dry® Acrylic Latex Caulk Plus Silicone. Seriously, our house is basically held up with the stuff.
I still catch myself staring at the ceiling while I’m cooking or making coffee. What a huge difference from the open joists we’ve been staring at for the last year!
Once the caulk dried, I gave the pre-primed crown a coat of the white paint left over from when we painted the cabinets.
Overall we are super happy with how well it turned out. If you’ve been considering giving crown moulding a try, I definitely recommend it. MDF crown moulding isn’t expensive at just over a dollar a foot — our entire project with extra scrap only cost about $40 — and with a little patience is pretty easy to figure out.
It’s hard to believe how dark and dingy the room was when we moved in — brown cabinets, beige ceiling, beige walls, and bad lighting:
A bit of paint, a few pot-lights, and a new ceiling has the room feeling like a totally different space. The lightness makes all the difference for me.
While I wouldn’t say the room is totally done, it’s definitely reached a state that can last us another year or two while we tackle other projects and save for new appliances, counters, floors and french doors. Hooraw!